BUTTON-UP BLOUSE
DIFFICULTY = Very hard
Yarn: NATURA by LAINES DU NORD
Circular needles: size 4 mm points and 60- 80 cm cable
Crochet-hook: size 3.5 mm
Other: cable needle, darning needle, stitch marker, scissors, tape measure, waste yarns, 4 buttons 2.5 cm in diameter.
Work the garment in flat (back-and-forth) seamlessly using the top-down technique. Work the sleeves in the round using the magic loop technique. The instructions below are written for size S. For the M-L-XL sizes refer to the number in brackets.
Invisible closing in round: slip 1st st purl wise from left to right needle. Pass the last st over the slipped st and drop it. Pull the cast-on tail to tighten the st. Place one SM (BOR) to mark the beginning and the end of the round and take care to move it across every round.
3-stitch cross (cross 3): worked over 3 stitches. The crossing is made by swapping the 1st and 3rd stitches, while the 2nd stitch always remains in the center. Slip the 1st stitch (blue highlighted in diagram) onto a cable needle and let it hang in back of the work. Slip the 2nd and then the 3rd stitch (red highlighted in diagram) from the left to the right needle. Return the held stitch from the cable needle onto the left needle.
Slip the 3rd of the early 3 stitches (currently on the right needle) onto a cable needle and let it hang in front of the work. Move the 2nd stitch from the right to the left needle (the 2nd stitch remains the center). Then return the 3rd held stitch from the cable needle onto the left needle (you have crossed the 3 stitches as shown in the diagram). At last, knit the 3 stitches.
Seed stitch: multiple of 2 sts.
Round 1: (p1, k1) across the entire round.
Round 2 and next rounds: purl the knit sts and knit the purl sts.
Patterned stitch
Refer to diagram and instructions below.
R 1 (RS): knit.
R 2 (WS): purl.
R 3: * cross 3, k3 *, rep until the end of the row.
R 4: purl.
R 5: * k3, cross 3 *, rep until the end of the row.
R 6: purl.
Rep r 1 to 6 until you have reached your desired length.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Size shown in photo: S (approx. 5/10 cm difference) - other sizes: M-L-XL
Chest circumference: 86 (92-98-104) cm
Heigh: 55 (61-67-73) cm
Body heigh from undersleeve: 30 (36-42-48) cm
Sleeve circumference: 44 (44-46-48) cm
Cuff circumference: 22 (22-24-24) cm
Neckline: 60 (62-64-68) cm
RS = right side of the work
WS = wrong side of the work
SM = stitch marker
SM (BOR) = stitch marker of the beginning of the round
col = color(s)
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch (suing crocket-hook)
k = knit
p = purl
rep = repeat
bind off = bind off (using the skp technique)
left incr = 1 increase to the left (insert the left needle from front to back under the strand between 2 stitches you have worked and knit 1 through the back loop)
right incr = 1 increase to the right (insert the left needle from back to front under the strand between 2 stitches you have worked and knit 1 through the front loop)
s2 k-wise with yarn in back = slip 2 stitches knit wise with the yarn in back of work
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (insert the right needle through next 2 stitches on left needle and knit them together)
ssk = slip, slip, knit (slip 2 stitches individually knit-wise, insert the left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together). This decrease is equivalent to a skp
skp = slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped st over (slip 1 st knit-wise, k1, pass slipped st over)
P tbl = purl through back loop (insert right hand knitting needle into the next stitch on the left-hand knitting needle through the back loop)
Size S (M-L-XL): 400 (245- 450-475) grams, col 18; ball x 100 grams
Procedure
FINISHING
Tie off all threads. Using size 3.5 mm crochet-hook work 1 round in sl st around each buttonhole. Sew the buttons on left front band, opposite the buttonholes.
DETAILED PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
BACK
Only for size S: cast-on 44 sts.
R 1 (RS): k1, right incr, knit until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 2 (WS): p1, right incr, purl until second last st, left incr, p1.
R 3: k1, right incr, k2, (cross 3, k3) rep until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 4: rep the r 2.
R 5: k1, right incr, k1, (k3, cross 3)*, rep until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 6: rep the r 2.
Rep r 1 to 6, 4 times. Slip the sts onto a waste yarn and cut the Natura yarn.
Only for size M:cast-on 48 sts.
R 1 (RS): k1, right incr, knit until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 2 (WS): p1, right incr, purl until second last st, left incr, p1.
R 3: k1, right incr, k5, (cross 3, k3), rep until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 4: rep the r 2.
R 5: k1, right incr, k3, (k3, cross 3), rep until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 6: rep the r 2.
Rep r 1 to 6, 4 times. Slip the sts onto a waste yarn and cut the Natura yarn.
Only for size L: cast-on 52 sts
R 1 (RS): k1, right incr, knit until second last st, left incr, k1.
R (WS): p1, right incr, purl until second last st, left incr, p1.
R 3: k1, right incr, (cross 3, k3), rep until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 4: rep the r 2.
R 5: k1, right incr, k5, (k3, cross 3), rep until second last st, left incr, 1
dir.
R 6: rep the r 2.
Rep r 1 to 6, 4 times. Slip the sts onto a waste yarn and cut the Natura yarn.
Only for size XL: cast-on 56 sts.
R 1 (RS): k1, right incr, knit until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 2 (WS): p1, right incr, purl until second last st, left incr, p1.
R 3: k1, right incr, k2, (cross 3, k3.) rep until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 4: rep the r 2.
R 5: k1, right incr, k1, (k3, cross 3) rep until second last st, left incr, k1.
R 6: rep the r 2.
Rep r 1 to 6, 4 times. Slip the sts onto a waste yarn and cut the Natura yarn.
RIGHT SHOULDER
Pick-up 28 (30-32-34) sts along the slanting of left shoulder, neckline (toward the shoulder) and purl tbl.
R 1 (setup): corresponds to the 3rd r of the patterned stitch.
Only for size S: k1, k2tog (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
Only for size M: k1, k2tog, k2 (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
Only for size L: k1, k2tog, k4, (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
Only for size XL: k1, k2tog (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
For all sizes
R 2: purl until the end of the row.
R 3: k1, follow the diagram until 2 sts from the end of the row, k2.
R 4: repthe r 2.
R 5: k1, k2tog, follow the diagram until 2 sts from the end of the row, right incr, k2.
R 6: repthe r 2.
Rep r 3 to 6, once.
R 7: k1, follow the diagram until 2 sts from the end of the row, right incr, k2.
R 8: purl.
Rep r 7 and 8, 3 times.
R 9: k2, follow the diagram until 2 sts from the end of the row; right incr, k2.
R 10: p2, right incr, purl until the end of the row.
Rep the r 9 and 10, 0 (1-1-1) times.
R 11: k1, follow the diagram until 2 sts from the end of the row, k2.
R 12: p2 with yarn in front of work (return 2 sts onto the left needle, p2), rep 12 (12-12-12) times. P12 (12-12-12).
Slip the sts onto a waste yarn. Cut the yarn.
LEFT SHOULDER
Pick-up 28 (30-32-34) sts along the slanting of right shoulder, neckline (toward the shoulder) and purl tbl.
R 1 (setup): corresponds to the 3rd r of the patterned stitch.
Only for size S: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, k1, (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
Only for size M: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, k3, (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
Only for size L: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, k5, (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
Only for size XL: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, k2tog (cross 3, k3) rep until the end of the row.
For all sizes
R 2: purl until the end of the row.
R 3: k2, follow the diagram until second last st, k1.
R 4: repthe r 2.
R 5: k2, left incr, follow the diagram until 2 sts from the end of the row, 1 ssk, k1.
R 6: rep the r 2.
Rep r 3 to 6, once.
R 7: k2, left incr, follow the diagram until second last st, k1.
R 8: purl until the end of the row.
Rep r 7 and 8, 3 times.
R 9: k2, left incr, follow the diagram until second last st; k1.
R 10: purl until 2 sts from the end of the row, right incr, p2.
Rep the r 9 and 10, 0 (1-1-1) times.
R 11: k2, (move 2 sts onto the left needle with yarn in back, k2) rep 12 (12-12-12) times, then follow the diagram until second last st, k1.
R 12: purl.
Do not cut the yarn.
Join the left front, back, and right front, taking care to pick up the sleeve stitches as follows:
R 1: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) 4 times, 1 SM, follow the diagram until second last st of the front, 1 SM, k1, work the sts along the band of first shoulder, continue on back, k1, 1 SM, follow the diagram until second last st of the row, 1 SM, k1, pick-up the sts along the band of second shoulder, move the sts of the right front onto the left needle and k1, 1 SM, follow the diagram until 10 sts from the end of the row, 1 SM, (k1, p1) 4 times, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
R 2: p2, (k1, p1) 4 times, purl until the SM, move the SM, (k1, p1) 4 times.
Sleeve increases and buttonhole shaping:
R 1: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) 4 times, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, follow the diagram until 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
R 2: p2, (k1, p1) 4 times, purl until the SM, move the SM, right incr, purl until the SM, left incr, move the SM, purl until the SM, move the SM, right incr, purl until the SM, left incr, move the SM, follow the diagram until the 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, p2.
R 3: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) 4 times, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, follow the diagram until the 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
R 4: across this row and every 20 r (4 times) shape one buttonhole (= p2, bind off 4 sts p-wise, slip last st from right to left needle. Using the crochet-hook move the 5 sts onto the left needle, return the la 1st st from left to right needle and pass the previous st over. Purl the 4 sts and continue in purl st until 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, p2.
R 5: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) 4 times, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, follow the diagram until the 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
R 6: p2, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl until the 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, p2.
Rep the r 5 and 6, 11 (10-10-10) times.
Continue to work the sleeve increases and shape the armholes:
R 1: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) 4 times, follow the diagram until 1 st from SM, right incr, k1, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, left incr, follow the diagram until 1 st from SM, right incr, k1, move the SM, left incr, knit until the SM, right incr, move the SM, k1, left incr, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, (p1, k1) 4 times, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
R 2: p2, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl until the 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, p2.
Rep r 1 and 2, 3 (3-5-5) times.
BODY
Set the sleeves aside and work the front, back, and remaining front stitches on the same needle:
R 1: beginning from left front, s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) 4 times, follow the diagram until the SM, cast-on 3 (5-7-7) sts, move the sts of the first armhole onto a waste yarn, move the SM, cast-on 3 (5-7-7) sts, knit until the SM, remove the SM, cast-on 3 (5-7-7) sts, move the sts of the second armhole onto a waste yarn, move the SM, cast-on 3 (5-7-7) sts, follow the diagram until the SM, move the SM, (p1, k1) 4 times, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
R 2: p2, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl until the 10 sts from the end of the row, (p1, k1) 4 times, p2.
R 3: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) 4 times, follow the diagram until the last SM of the row, move the SM, (p1, k1), 4 times, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
Rep the r 2 and 3 until reaching 24 (28-28-30) cm.
Lower band
Continue in seed stitch.
Setup row (WS): p2, (p1, k1) rep until 2 sts from the end of the row, p2.
R 1: s2 k-wise with yarn in back, (p1, k1) rep until the 2 sts from the end of the row, s2 k-wise with yarn in back.
R 2: p2, (p1, k1) rep until the 2 sts from the end of the row, p2.
Rep r 1 and 2 (5 cm approx.).
Bind off all the sts with I-cord technique, (move 2 sts onto the left needle, k1, 1 ssk) rep until 4 sts from the end of the row. Cut the yarn and, using the darning needle, bind off last 4 sts with Kitchener Stitch technique.
SLEEVES (x 2)
Work in the round with the magic loop technique: from the center of lower side of one armhole place 1 SM, k3 (5-7-7) sts then work the sts you have left for the armhole, k3 (5-7-7) before the SM.
Knit all rounds and, at the same time, every 12 (10-8-8) rounds [8 (10-12-12) times], work one round with decreases, as follows: move the SM, k2, k2tog, knit until 4 sts before the SM, 1 ssk, k2.
Cuff: work 14 rounds in seed stitch. Bind off all sts with I-cord technique, * return 2 sts onto the left needle, k1, 1 ssk) rep until 4 sts from the end of the row. Cut the yarn and, using the darning needle, bind off last 4 sts with Kitchener Stitch technique.
Work the second sleeve as give for first one.
COLLAR
Pick-up the sts around the neckline and work in seed st in back-and-forth rows. After first 6 rows and before the last 6 rows, on RS of right front, shape the buttonhole: p2, bind off 4 sts p-wise, slip last st from right to left needle. Using the crochet-hook move the 5 sts onto the left needle, return the la 1st st from left to right needle and pass the previous st over. Purl the 4 sts.
Work 12 cm in seed stitch, then bind off all sts loosely leaving a long tail. Fold the band to the inside and, using the darning needle, sew the last round to the base of the 1st round of the collar.
