OPEN-WORK JUMPER
DIFFICULTY = Very hard
Yarn = LUXURY SILK by LAINES DU NORD Size S (M-L-XL): 350 (375-400-425) grams, col. 23 (ball x 100 grams)
Circular needles = size 4.5 mm points, 60- 80- 120 cm cable
Crochet-hook = size 4.5
Altro = cable needle, darning needle, stitch marker, scissors, tape measure, waste yarns, 6 buttons 1.5 cm in diameter
Invisible closing in round: slip 1st st purl wise from left to right needle. Pass the last st over the slipped st and drop it. Pull the cast-on tail to tighten the st. Place one SM (BOR) to mark the beginning and the end of the round and take care to move it across every round.
Garter stitch in flat: knit or purl following the instructions.
Garter stitch in the round: always alternate 1 round in knit stitch and 1 round in purl stitch.
Stockinette stitch in flat: always alternate 1 row in knit stitch on RS and 1 row in purl stitch on WS.
Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rounds.
Rib 1x1 in the round
Round 1 and next rounds (RS): (k1, p1) rep until the end of the round.
Patterned stitch in flat (back-and-forth row)
R 1 (RS): sl1 p-wise, knit to end of row, wrapping the yarn twice around the needle for each st. On the next row, insert the needle only into the first wrap to form a spike st.
R 2 (WS): slip 1st st p-wise from left to right needle, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them * rep **until the end of the row.
R 3: rep the r 1.
R 4 (WS): sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them * rep **until the end of the row.
For patterned stitch in the round (sleeves), work every round on RS; so, knit the crossed sts and slip k-wise.
The fabric texture is created by alternating stockinette and garter stitch
RS = right side of the work
WS = wrong side of the work
SM = stitch marker
SM (BOR) = stitch marker of the beginning of the round
col = color(s)
st(s) = stitch(es)
k = knit
p = purl
rep = repeat
rep ** = repeat from* to *
sl1 p-wise: slip 1 stitch purl-wise from left to right needle.
sl1 k-wise: slip 1 stitch knit-wise from left to right needle.
bind off = bind off (using the skp technique)
left incr = 1 increase to the left (insert the left needle from front to back under the strand between 2 stitches you have worked and knit 1 through the back loop)
right incr = 1 increase to the right (insert the left needle from back to front under the strand between 2 stitches you have worked and knit 1 through the front loop)
skp = slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped st over (slip 1 st knit-wise, k1, pass slipped st over)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Size shown in photo: S - other sizes: M-L-XL
Chest circumference: 86 (92-98-104) cm
Heigh (front or back): 57 (61-67-73) cm
Body heigh from undersleeve: 32 (36-42-48) cm
Sleeve circumference: 30 (44-46-48) cm
Shoulder-to-shoulder width: 58 (60-64-66) cm
Neckline circumference: 60 (62-64-68) cm
Procedure
DETAILED PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
RIGHT BACK PART
Using size 4.5 mm needle, cast-on 32 (34-36-40) sts.
R 1: knit until the second last st of the row, 1 right incr, k1.
R 2: knit.
R 3 and 4: rep r 1 and 2.
R 5: purl until the second last st of the row, 1 right incr, p1.
R 6: rep r 2.
R 7: rep r 5.
R 8: rep r 2.
R 9: purl until the end of the row, then cast-on 9 sts.
Beginning of patterned stitch.
R 10 (RS): k6 for opening band in garter st, knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, to form a spike st, k1.
R 11 (WS): k1, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them; slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work) and p2 *, rep **, until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6 for opening band in garter st.
R 12 RS): k6, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k1.
R 13 (WS): p1, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 14: k6, knit the remaining sts.
R 15: purl until 6 sts from the end, k6.
R 16 and 17: rep r 14 and 15.
R 18 to 21: knit.
R 22 and 23: rep r 14 and 15.
R 24 to 27: rep r 10 to 13.
R 28 to 31: knit.
R 32 to 37: rep r 14 and 15, 3 times.
R 38: k6, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k1.
R 39: p1, sl1 p-wise, *slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 40: k6, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st to form spike sts, k1.
R 41 (WS): p1, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle to right needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 42: k6, knit until the second last st of the row, 1 left incr, k1.
R 43: purl until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 44: rep R 42.
R 45: k1, 1 right incr, knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
UPPER LEFT PART
Using size 4.5 mm needle, cast-on 32 (34-36-40) sts.
R 1: k1, 1 left incr, knit until the end of the row.
R 2: knit.
R 3 and 4: rep r 1 and 2.
R 5: p1, 1 left incr, purl to end of the row.
R 6: rep r 2.
R 7: rep r 5.
R 8: knit and cast-on 9 sts at the end of the row.
R 9: purl, 9 cast-on sts included.
Beginning of patterned stitch.
R 10 (RS): k1; knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st; k6 for opening band in garter st.
R 11 (LR): k6 for opening band, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them; slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work) and purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 12 (RS): k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k6.
R 13 (LR): k6, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6
R 14: knit.
R 15: k6, purl the remaining sts.
R 16: knit
On the next row shape one buttonhole as follows:
R 17 with buttonhole: k2, bind off 2 sts, using the crochet-hook, move 3 sts onto the left needle, move the 1st st from left to right needle, pass the 2nd st of the right needle over the slipped st and knit them, then purl the remaining sts.
R 18 to 22: knit.
R 23: k6, purl the remaining sts.
R 24 to 27: rep r 10 to 13. At the same time, across r 26, shape one buttonhole, as given for r 17.
R 28 to 32: knit.
R 33: k6, purl.
R 34: knit.
R 35 and 36: rep 33 and 34.
R 37: rep r 33.
R 38: k1, sl1 p-wise; then knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k6.
R 39: k6, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 40: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k6.
R 41: k6, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, **, rep until second last st, k1.
R 42: k1, 1 left incr, knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 43: k6, purl until the end of the row.
R 44: rep r 42.
R 45: k6, knit until the second last st of the row, 1 right incr, k1.
NECKLINE RIGHT FRONT
Pick up 32 (34-36-40) sts along the right shoulder edge, from neckline towards the shoulder.
R 1 to 4: knit (garter st).
R 5: purl, until the second last st of the row, 1 right incr, p1.
R 6: k1, 1 left incr, knit until the end of the row.
R 7 and 8: rep r 5 and 6.
R 9: rep r 5.
R 10: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, 1 left incr and k1.
R 11: p1, 1 left incr, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 12: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, 1 left incr and k1.
R 13: p1, 1 left incr, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 14: k1, 1 left incr, knit until the end of the row.
R 15: purl, until the second last st of the row, 1 right incr, p1.
R 16: rep r 14.
Leave the sts onto a waste yarn and cut the yarn.
NECKLINE LEFT FRONT
Pick up 32 (34-36-40) sts along the left shoulder edge, from neckline towards the shoulder.
R 1 to 4: knit (garter st).
R 5: p1, 1 right incr, purl the remaining sts.
R 6.: knit until the second last st of the row, 1 left incr, k1.
R 7 and 8: rep r 5 and 6.
R 9: rep r 5.
R 10: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, 1 left incr and k1.
R 11: p1, 1 right incr, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 12: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, 1 left incr and k1.
R 13: p1, 1 right incr, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 14: knit until the end of the row, end with 1 left incr and k1.
R 15: p1, 1 right incr, purl until the end of the row.
R 16: rep r 14.
Leave the sts onto a waste yarn and cut the yarn.
Across the next row, join right and left front, closing the front neckline.
R 17 (LR): beginning from right front, purl, at last cast-on 16 (18-20-22) sts and purl the r 17 of the left front, joining the front (now you have one single panel).
Switch to 120 cm cable.
R 18 to 22: knit.
R 23: purl.
R 24: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k1.
R 25: p1, sl1 p-wise, *slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 26: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k1.
R 27 f: p1, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until the second last st of the row, p1.
R 28: knit.
R 29 to 33: purl.
R 34: knit.
R 35: purl.
R 36 and 37: rep r 34 and 35.
R 38: k1, 1 left incr, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st; 1 right incr, k1.
R 39: p2, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 2 sts from the end of the row, p2.
R 40: k1, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st; t k1.
R 41: p3, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 3 sts from the end of the row, p3.
R 42: k1, 1 left incr, knit until the second last st of the row, 1 right incr, k1.
R 43: purl.
R 44 and 45: rep r 42.
Cut and tie off the yarn.
BODY
Across the next row, return all sts of front and 2 backs onto the same cable and work in back-and-fort rows.
R 1 to 4: k6, purl until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 5 with buttonhole (RS): k2, bind off 2 sts, using the crochet-hook, move 3 sts onto the left needle, move the 1st st from left to right needle, pass the 2nd st of the right needle over the slipped st and knit them, then knit the remaining sts until 6 sts from the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st; k6.
R 6 WS: k6, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 7 (RS): k6, sl1 p-wise, then knit until the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st; at last, k1 and k6 for band shaping.
R 8 (LR) k6, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rep **, until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 9: k6, knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 10: k6, purl until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 11 and 12: rep r 9 and 10.
R 13 with buttonhole (RS): rep r 5.
R 14 (LR): rep r 10.
R 15 to 18: rep r 9 and 10.
R 19: k6, sl1 p-wise, knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k6.
R 20 (LR): k6, sl1 p-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them *, rip ** until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 21 (RS): k6, sl1 p-wise, then knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st; k6 for band shaping.
R 22 (LR) k6, sl1 p-wise * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then purl them, slip p-wise next 2 sts from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then purl them *, rip ** until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 23: k6, knit until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 24: k6, purl until 6 sts from the end of the row, k6.
R 25: rep r 23.
Rep r 1 to 25, 1 (1-2-2) times. On r 33 and 53 shape one buttonhole as given for r 5 of the body.
For lower band shaping, work 20 r rib 1x1 (first and last 6 sts in garter st). At the same time, at r 15 shape one buttonhole as given for r 5.
After working the band, knit 3 rows, then bind off all sts loosely.
SLEEVES (x 2)
Pick up 48 (52-54-56) sts around the armhole (beginning from lower edge), place one SM (BOR) and work in the round with Magic Loop technique. Move the SM (BOR) at beginning of every round.
Round 1 to 4: stockinette st.
Round 5: k1, knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping twice for each st, k1.
Round 6: k1, sl1 k-wise, * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), and knit them; slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work) and knit them *, rep ** until the second last st of the row, k1.
Round 7: k1, sl1 k-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k1.
Round 8: k1, sl1 p-wise * slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then knit them, slip next 2 sts p-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then knit them*, rep **, until the second last st of the row, k1.
Round 9: knit.
Round 10 to 12: purl.
Round 13: knit rit.
Round 14: purl.
Round 15: knit.
Round 16 and 17: rep r 14 and 15.
Round 18: purl.
Round 19: k1, knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k1.
Round r 20: k1, sl1 k-wise, *slip next 2 sts k-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then knit them, slip k-wise next 2 sts from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then knit them *, rip ** until the second last st of the row, k1.
Round 21: k1, sl1 k-wise, then knit until the second last st of the row, wrapping yarn twice for each st, k1.
Round 22: k1, sl1 p-wise * slip next 2 sts k-wise from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on front and the second st on back of work), then knit them, slip p-wise next 2 sts from left to right needle, cross and return them onto the left needle (the first st on back and the second st on front of work), then knit them*, rep **, until the second last st of the row, k1.
Round 23: knit.
Round 24: purl.
Round 25o: rep r 23.
Rep r 1 to 25, 2 (2-2-2-) times.
COLLAR: using size 60 cm cable, pick up the sts around the neckline, on RS, then knit 3 rows (garter st). Bind off all sts loosely.
Tie off the threads.
Sew the buttons on garter patterned band of right back, opposite the buttonholes.
The garment is worked top down and seamless. Beginning from back (2 pieces), right and left side, in back-and forth rows. Pick up the sts along the shoulders edges and work two parts of front separately, to shape the neckline. After working the upper parts of back and front, join them and work the body (always in back-and-forth rows). Work the sleeves around the armholes with Magic Loop technique. Work the collar in garter st on neckline base. The instructions below refer to size S. For size M-L-XL refers to the numbers in the brackets.
